tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54507063249016394732024-03-05T03:05:21.874-08:00Matt SmithWinter mountaineering and climbing in the Scottish Highlands.Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-14655341815137864522014-03-04T13:30:00.002-08:002014-03-04T13:48:27.297-08:00Golden Oldie - Aonach Mor (Mon 3 Mar)Fresh overnight snow meant another mountaineering day, this time on the west face of Aonach Mor, thinking it would be free of the worst powder and having been done only 2 days previous there would be a trail. We were wrong on a both counts. Fortunately a team of 3 broke trail to just before Gendarme Ridge, leaving us only the last few hundred metres of hard work.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan on the initial approach slopes</td></tr>
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We soloed the initial buttress with a few moves that felt tenuous, as every axe and foot placement had to be tested for fear of axes pulling through 4inches of powder, or standing on rock slabs and sliding.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan on a move that felt closer to 3</td></tr>
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I ran out of bottle when the first narrow section coincided with a snow shower, cross winds and spindrift, so we got the rope out as I inched my way forward, ending up 'a cheval' not for the first time in the day. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan approaching the first 'a cheval' section</td></tr>
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I ran out a couple of rope lengths with a couple of blocks for gear, regained my composure and we took coils to speed things up again. We then encountered the sting in the tail - the final arete was a knifeedge of loose snow, with a vertical drop on the left and steep snow on the right, more akin to the Kuffner arete on Mont Maudit, not a grade II in Scotland! We move together across this cautiously, as there wasn't any gear without an awful lot of digging.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan on final snow arete</td></tr>
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Thankfully that was the end of the difficulties and we crawled up the final snow slopes. Despite being knackered, we found the motivation to make it from the summit to the Gondola in 50mins, making it with 20mins to spare. Complete soft snow cover all the way helped.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt and Aidan happy (thankful) on the summit</td></tr>
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A hard day, but worthwhile and enjoyable, and definitely felt like an adventure. Well worth its 3 stars.Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-35612526412987772242014-03-04T12:34:00.001-08:002014-03-04T12:39:57.269-08:00Another Classic - Liathach Traverse (Sat 1 Mar)My best mate Aidan was up from Yorkshire for a long weekend, climbing conditions were poor, so we went for a(nother) classic mountaineering day out that neither Aidan nor Vic had done.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The initial step on to the arete</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan on the ridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan and Matt</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pinnacles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aidan and Matt on the ridge</td></tr>
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Mixed weather, a good Scottish winter day. Soft snow on the southern approach slopes to the east end of the ridge, spindrift, low cloud. Firm neve on westerly aspects, a few inches of powder on east aspects, a good track to follow, good company. 8.5hrs road to road. Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-85761227735725958482014-02-17T13:29:00.002-08:002014-02-18T13:08:26.131-08:00Classic Mountaineering - North West at its best (Sun 16 Feb)<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first decent forecast (i.e. low wind) on a weekend saw us desperate to escape the DIY. In need of some hill fitness, a mountaineering day was in order. We chose the A'Chioch traverse on Beinn Bhan. This is a good choice when there is lots of snow, especially when it has come from the south. The roads were icy, so the drive from Cannich took just over two</span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">hours, but we left the road before 9, a good performance for us!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It was a popular choice, with several parties on the route, but it was very sociable and the belays are relatively spacious. The snow was mostly ok (reasonable neve, not powder), turf was firm, and a good track helps. However, there isn't much gear. This is especially true on the last crux pitch, although thankfully the placements are good. Personally I think there are moves of III (as per the Scotland Ridges guide) and with little pro on the crux I think it has serious fall potential, so I think it is closer to III than II. It certainly felt harder than Curved Ridge.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There is quite a
bit of snow even on Beinn Bhan. Looking down March Hare looked loaded
and the back wall of the coire with Silver Tear there wasn't much ice
visible under the soft stuff. </span><br />
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-65411450684601904082014-01-05T11:22:00.001-08:002014-01-05T11:22:38.365-08:00Birthday weekendGreat birthday weekend in the Cairngorms
- skiing on Saturday, climbing today. We did a quick hit in to Sneachda
to beat the approaching storm - back on the coire floor by noon. Red
Gully can be III but was banked out so only II today. Approach slopes
were quite soft and 'slabby' in places, but steeper ground generally
gave good placements. Not much gear though. No photos of the route as we were hurrying and then the spindrift started! I should have taken one on the walk-in as it was beautiful, but all I've got is this one after the route, which shows how plastered the crag is.<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-36632141477161649102013-12-29T14:25:00.002-08:002013-12-31T09:52:37.904-08:00Christmas cobwebsDriving back north from Christmas in Surrey and Swansea, we took the opportunity of a decent forecast for Sunday to stop in Dumbarton and explore the Arrochar Alps. It was good to blow the cobwebs away and start working off some of the Christmas excesses! There was plenty of soft snow, and a rising freezing level, so we decided to give climbing a miss, and headed up Beinn Narnain from the main path to the Cobbler. The southern corrie was a bit of a slog breaking trail in snow up to knee deep, but the South East ridge past 'the Spearhead' was good fun. There appeared to be good ice on the rocks above 800m, but deep soft snow on NE and East aspects, just as predicted following SW airflows.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyEI6pgce0CEI9wwRRuDWifZS4w2xpdmpBKX6jotCS1THtIYfp8uMng3tOhNl-9N7UWDpHOKJVIAWpfBkj-eNmP7dEu4CCVs6WvDwjmrG_r6OLORQ1cN9iAHcFeJGQDo8ME1MsaQiWFMu/s1600/DSCN0107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyEI6pgce0CEI9wwRRuDWifZS4w2xpdmpBKX6jotCS1THtIYfp8uMng3tOhNl-9N7UWDpHOKJVIAWpfBkj-eNmP7dEu4CCVs6WvDwjmrG_r6OLORQ1cN9iAHcFeJGQDo8ME1MsaQiWFMu/s320/DSCN0107.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cobbler</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ0iLMTt6Dpsnnhfra5JJDoW7bsN3tmwxNQKKRCFe5ZGsW1JIlLyETTx6yK53Gwf2JRnBqeqOm8c-Ib3aqfkoEUs-C6XhCpIGHikB8HOG-GfSyljQvEeVMIPo2VEm88kpgisywbgTCQ15v/s1600/DSCN0112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ0iLMTt6Dpsnnhfra5JJDoW7bsN3tmwxNQKKRCFe5ZGsW1JIlLyETTx6yK53Gwf2JRnBqeqOm8c-Ib3aqfkoEUs-C6XhCpIGHikB8HOG-GfSyljQvEeVMIPo2VEm88kpgisywbgTCQ15v/s320/DSCN0112.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting the SE Ridge of Beinn Narnain. The Cobbler in the background.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguznGA3hoGT8YvbW4A_Jzt_noqdgH9_mnRWTdQpQjB30dVEGLKMjKOUBpNbHNXAkrXP0ooIgCsJvku79TJFhFAhG3o5E7U9Yy9bu4YERPtmGn5ya1hAqejZKEUSpsx62DMcKGQTOYKhtr6/s1600/DSCN0114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguznGA3hoGT8YvbW4A_Jzt_noqdgH9_mnRWTdQpQjB30dVEGLKMjKOUBpNbHNXAkrXP0ooIgCsJvku79TJFhFAhG3o5E7U9Yy9bu4YERPtmGn5ya1hAqejZKEUSpsx62DMcKGQTOYKhtr6/s320/DSCN0114.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skirting 'The Spearhead'. Soft snow on this NE aspect. </td></tr>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-6897986903947083132012-02-11T13:58:00.000-08:002012-02-13T12:14:51.015-08:00Successful return to Aonach Mor<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Forecast was +2'c at 900m, so we had to go high. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Just over 2 weeks after running away from avalanche slopes on Aonach Mor, we were back on the off chance that there was ice to climb. We were right! Visibility was poor, there was some definite dripping going on, but no wind. Surprisingly there wasn't many teams out.<br /><br />It was a little soft at the bottom of the route, and foot placements never felt totally secure, but White Shark IV,5 *** gave a good climb. We felt rusty and weak, but just about managed to hold it together long enough to get up the crux steep section on the second pitch. There was soft snow on the upper slopes (a while since I've used a deadman in a belay on a route), and a tricky cornice which succumbed to swapping axes so that I could use Vic's better plunging HB Hurricane, and a traverse to the right.<br /><br />We just made the gondala and relaxed in the new cafe. Very civilised.</span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihS3_zQQphYaD9d0Brc0gtwMXjQcy4Xl23fK8HYtGZgkqfEPzWbCtJLyMb8-xDj6H50fL89PYwuZ9hHeta-pbjhZaeMmT1yaKvICHy_uTypk9M30_0iS27a_NJ-bHkVctVvHU8R38bZOnP/s1600/DSC02613.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihS3_zQQphYaD9d0Brc0gtwMXjQcy4Xl23fK8HYtGZgkqfEPzWbCtJLyMb8-xDj6H50fL89PYwuZ9hHeta-pbjhZaeMmT1yaKvICHy_uTypk9M30_0iS27a_NJ-bHkVctVvHU8R38bZOnP/s320/DSC02613.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708004295187995378" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPQeKjDoHQQXngNJCNg71y8pazz3O3eMoBzkK1WgJepVeMWkjqcrgvJ93AZ4eqwXMS3mfyOp7s1ObP2RxRsQ3wAswZb0Dye69bu9fw3-YlK0ckIRHyA1rMv1yXWc_CU4Z64NPLlJo6dvKR/s1600/DSC02614.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPQeKjDoHQQXngNJCNg71y8pazz3O3eMoBzkK1WgJepVeMWkjqcrgvJ93AZ4eqwXMS3mfyOp7s1ObP2RxRsQ3wAswZb0Dye69bu9fw3-YlK0ckIRHyA1rMv1yXWc_CU4Z64NPLlJo6dvKR/s320/DSC02614.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708004306834949378" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlq0mDJshWvkF1GN1fDHcrAQ1SG8oYLVu9hy4-1VcGwcRPBe_f0wYuFJTVzJQ-nxCILJ27eY3PmwjHD0rTg_z__ThyphenhyphenQziItOa4abtcPz0Z5N2O0EcFd87_ztshMmpcVrO-K8UicZYFEx7A/s1600/DSC02617.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlq0mDJshWvkF1GN1fDHcrAQ1SG8oYLVu9hy4-1VcGwcRPBe_f0wYuFJTVzJQ-nxCILJ27eY3PmwjHD0rTg_z__ThyphenhyphenQziItOa4abtcPz0Z5N2O0EcFd87_ztshMmpcVrO-K8UicZYFEx7A/s320/DSC02617.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708004319932278434" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-34683749460312288022011-02-13T09:54:00.000-08:002011-02-13T10:16:41.994-08:00A day with my bruv<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNr8ZOZm4MeE3DdwLwB7j2T4ywdvN9nCh4-qvUIZnTMeIhpw1hpYEPoThxjABke8N5T4ErYtfIYTGkmcK0FrjMwWd9cZabYs1xsR3_n8wHqnGu1eGHkf4S2DP50KD3tIvKmRYqTKkA4_QZ/s1600/11022011026.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNr8ZOZm4MeE3DdwLwB7j2T4ywdvN9nCh4-qvUIZnTMeIhpw1hpYEPoThxjABke8N5T4ErYtfIYTGkmcK0FrjMwWd9cZabYs1xsR3_n8wHqnGu1eGHkf4S2DP50KD3tIvKmRYqTKkA4_QZ/s320/11022011026.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573238465114074578" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAPVma7R1DMY6k-cgeXbmAoxdB6hI9MDAoQgUlbg9BS4cL1bHmQKp_O0CWMXYdQiQLpwqO-TkwcZHmqDu4_t_xTCadPkxD7EPZkWXJHvvooFfxi41x67_q85hs7EucK_J3aaJNiNmE-tEW/s1600/11022011027.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAPVma7R1DMY6k-cgeXbmAoxdB6hI9MDAoQgUlbg9BS4cL1bHmQKp_O0CWMXYdQiQLpwqO-TkwcZHmqDu4_t_xTCadPkxD7EPZkWXJHvvooFfxi41x67_q85hs7EucK_J3aaJNiNmE-tEW/s320/11022011027.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5573238480952952658" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">One of those rare things, a day with my brother, nige. Jules and he joined us in Aviemore for a very pleasant couple of evenings, and we got out on Friday. The forecast was for the weather to deteriorate so an early start and an an escapable route in Sneachda was the correct call. We started up Wavelength (III,4) for a couple of pitches, taking a slight detour up some steep ice as a wall/groove didn't have much build up. With time pressing on, we followed Spiral Gully (II) for a pitch, then did it's Direct Finish (III), which gave 2 further icey pitches. Conditions on the plateau weren't great, so we took a hard right and descended the Goat Track. Conditions in the corrie were far nicer, but we were soon chased out by the snow arriving. 1st photo is a ptarmigan that decided to watch from a nearby rib, 2nd is nige having just done a steep bit.</span>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-91967071158139357022011-01-30T04:12:00.000-08:002011-01-30T07:54:33.988-08:00Great Green Gully - Classic<span style="font-family:arial;">The time had come for a big day after lots of time spent in cairngorms. It was forecast to brighten up, so we went to the Ben. A 5.30 alarm, a rainy drive, and a cloudy walk to the CIC with snow showers did not make for happy feelings, but as we gained height in to Coire na Ciste the clouds lifted and the sun came out. With the crowds heading for Comb Gully, we went for Green (a third of the way along the trapezoid buttress) and it was a great choice.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtl4H9YmxCZgPOGR4H7a8hdh-8i-Ep46EyxIlx0SVy9o1i5sdXmfZupJpvw-itlrfEwKrWAkzAh_SJqByGwb8r62XvIbNygjJNh-8nWQ7jdmBbyXpWJNpBZN0gQupAIvIYNJBiD6oiU8yE/s1600/DSC02177.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtl4H9YmxCZgPOGR4H7a8hdh-8i-Ep46EyxIlx0SVy9o1i5sdXmfZupJpvw-itlrfEwKrWAkzAh_SJqByGwb8r62XvIbNygjJNh-8nWQ7jdmBbyXpWJNpBZN0gQupAIvIYNJBiD6oiU8yE/s320/DSC02177.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5567957297318505442" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We were at the bottom of the route for 12.30 (under 4hrs from car), and conditions were spot on. 5 pitches of grade III with grade 4 steps were a test for the calves and allowed practice in placing screws while on front points.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghM_cg9CxQRYkTSFdcPwTkdEnEUVUm52fGrBUQ7465snrFajnS3F9WXUC4UGKSuuJNpYisaJZns4R-G99gW_9lM3CaGWoOxnlHQrwHLrkfQtLLQWnNabpT3JUHomvSAQKxlvB60c60reNS/s1600/DSC02179.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghM_cg9CxQRYkTSFdcPwTkdEnEUVUm52fGrBUQ7465snrFajnS3F9WXUC4UGKSuuJNpYisaJZns4R-G99gW_9lM3CaGWoOxnlHQrwHLrkfQtLLQWnNabpT3JUHomvSAQKxlvB60c60reNS/s320/DSC02179.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5567957943927810850" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgkr46KcdlUrS_fCuJGWSvzSIIGsrho4tctbg9h9rBEt2DR6dN4MiHG-kYfuak6s6tOV0nHm1G_R1TZ6_c5eGEU63jDVsXVkW4uJuxfKSeBncDrEJQWfcj9gMDPiASC9fjOLeGz-cFNzr/s1600/29012011023.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgkr46KcdlUrS_fCuJGWSvzSIIGsrho4tctbg9h9rBEt2DR6dN4MiHG-kYfuak6s6tOV0nHm1G_R1TZ6_c5eGEU63jDVsXVkW4uJuxfKSeBncDrEJQWfcj9gMDPiASC9fjOLeGz-cFNzr/s320/29012011023.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5567959130267246994" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Protection averaged 2 pieces per pitch (of between 30 and 45m), but peg belays are in situ. The deadman was invaluable for the plateau belay. Topping out at 4.30 in to a setting sun completed a perfect day. </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00H8Qc03RtCY7iqq_14tqiMI0Ybb6cjIGrP0hbC45ML5bOEqZT8w0_Uvgqfshkacx50t07UluKswpV6dQWU-yh_5geomuyGmtH60Ohp__Ny9ouZOdD6wn7hpEvwbmXAipPPCglp0dKLK2/s1600/29012011025.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00H8Qc03RtCY7iqq_14tqiMI0Ybb6cjIGrP0hbC45ML5bOEqZT8w0_Uvgqfshkacx50t07UluKswpV6dQWU-yh_5geomuyGmtH60Ohp__Ny9ouZOdD6wn7hpEvwbmXAipPPCglp0dKLK2/s320/29012011025.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5567959493004904674" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-53943449531570474332011-01-30T04:10:00.000-08:002011-01-30T04:11:31.533-08:00Thursday 20 Jan - Haston Line<span style="font-family:arial;">Any day off work </span>is<span style="font-family:arial;"> a good day, but this was a belter. A lie in, drive to cairngorms, leave car park at 12, walk in with no wind and blue skies, grab a quick route, descend by sunset. We did the Haston Line, which has a short sharp crux, and has been graded variously III,4 ; IV,4 ; III,5! I'm not sure which is appropriate as the moves are quite powerful (layback off torqued axes with front points on an icey wall (1/4 inch ice)), and the gear's not great (as the cracks were iced up), but then, there's only a bit of it, so it's not sustained.</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HuQAIMimXqAOOICNNiOSxnUIkjxnNLHcdDdMaF_N3j5WhZKdjtGcXxlXMB2_OpqZ5dWl_Uhu-jr0XGvCHj38sU9nhco3P9XfbZd-Z7BMCgw8mB4xRj-dGc1tnAkOykFE1oAz5LRCQVfY/s1600/20012011016.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HuQAIMimXqAOOICNNiOSxnUIkjxnNLHcdDdMaF_N3j5WhZKdjtGcXxlXMB2_OpqZ5dWl_Uhu-jr0XGvCHj38sU9nhco3P9XfbZd-Z7BMCgw8mB4xRj-dGc1tnAkOykFE1oAz5LRCQVfY/s320/20012011016.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5567949956329633218" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-4815035683487595672010-04-23T13:55:00.000-07:002010-04-23T14:38:34.764-07:00Point 5<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjkeaT3_mLiH_stIAtJ8nTlbetSk2BKKWGNrZ5d3rWBsN_I7byNiA7QV30Og0ZGhz4gFw2z9FrEySv50yCxZnFPDm8UMR-Q82OET8d3jEcVoqdCbYQONqtuFKr-cI1J34VrWu2eNDoUTnC/s1600/IMG_0204.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjkeaT3_mLiH_stIAtJ8nTlbetSk2BKKWGNrZ5d3rWBsN_I7byNiA7QV30Og0ZGhz4gFw2z9FrEySv50yCxZnFPDm8UMR-Q82OET8d3jEcVoqdCbYQONqtuFKr-cI1J34VrWu2eNDoUTnC/s320/IMG_0204.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463442646883129010" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CofIAZLRhk9L1fR72FhItHJwK9bgRd_ORYf_Kc7MFskH8YaMCqxqAz_yCq0j_1pqcSpXtanRc_2v4QcqbF6O8lqVrvmZgPS75amzEFS5jb3ny-uulnscc5_HCg21FlUdWzCQVNV0k63G/s1600/IMG_0206.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CofIAZLRhk9L1fR72FhItHJwK9bgRd_ORYf_Kc7MFskH8YaMCqxqAz_yCq0j_1pqcSpXtanRc_2v4QcqbF6O8lqVrvmZgPS75amzEFS5jb3ny-uulnscc5_HCg21FlUdWzCQVNV0k63G/s320/IMG_0206.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463442659481591410" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Vic bought me a days</span> <span style="font-family:arial;">guiding with Alan Kimber for my 30th, so we went for Point 5. Above, Alan leads the 2nd (chimney) pitch (crux). </span><span style="font-family: arial;">Below, Alan leads the 3rd (rogue) pitch. Video is Vic climbing the rogue pitch. Owing to a windy morning, we didn't leave the hut until 11.30, but still topped out at 6pm - a reasonably quick time. </span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZ7Tv_nkJHgm7zYimonhs6oTlXtgT_7aYcFpfDsopM4DAMN9eZccouP2T9-NRCHIAfoXPYR0SlthVtue4alH3eyQr_GiDaE5KHj3r_4BG3tjzqXKBa7tOV4Dd_jLQCUXHrgBXsSjqBtXs/s1600/IMG_0212.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZ7Tv_nkJHgm7zYimonhs6oTlXtgT_7aYcFpfDsopM4DAMN9eZccouP2T9-NRCHIAfoXPYR0SlthVtue4alH3eyQr_GiDaE5KHj3r_4BG3tjzqXKBa7tOV4Dd_jLQCUXHrgBXsSjqBtXs/s320/IMG_0212.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463443506531959202" border="0" /></a><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy7Hz5R4gUcj8btJMVnSZv8rGN0ECRjkHOIhb-0_DFjNtoBs00coZN3gnqU0dM1ulp1fm_tXxXYkiViLoFMiw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-2352613497855247892010-04-23T13:37:00.000-07:002010-04-23T13:55:19.904-07:00Tower ridge<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGUBhvIkkE0Pg04X8reDMSrfGPI_bzBxPqLRfz5nST6JIbsKcG3yPu7YIbguUJ8Gz7QsQE0z65GXZa-sGVo6I_gI4N_rJfqZTFN-5iknpq3rwcx4MRkNiOhMdTLW0K45N9tp1NhmAuIcGj/s1600/DSC01452.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGUBhvIkkE0Pg04X8reDMSrfGPI_bzBxPqLRfz5nST6JIbsKcG3yPu7YIbguUJ8Gz7QsQE0z65GXZa-sGVo6I_gI4N_rJfqZTFN-5iknpq3rwcx4MRkNiOhMdTLW0K45N9tp1NhmAuIcGj/s320/DSC01452.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463438553535823746" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2LJaKs0tIlmgY_s3H1lnxBqGPDyt-B-eIx1JKMYf0lAe6ZCaIuD2sMHwdrNJN-CrFek5_Ynls-a4_muugBq-8BiOOxzicp0WbEcrBCbLtWbosiGFZ3A5wCQYuPtiEXqMsXWF5aHwq_yh/s1600/DSC01456.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2LJaKs0tIlmgY_s3H1lnxBqGPDyt-B-eIx1JKMYf0lAe6ZCaIuD2sMHwdrNJN-CrFek5_Ynls-a4_muugBq-8BiOOxzicp0WbEcrBCbLtWbosiGFZ3A5wCQYuPtiEXqMsXWF5aHwq_yh/s320/DSC01456.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463438584668860722" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">An alpine start (3.30 from car park) meant we got the best of the snow conditions on 11 April. We were first on the ridge, and conditions were good. The ben was surprisingly quiet. </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTMtinkCMURK-KwiNLFiRs94rDCp4gl7onvGDKW3Sy5AqNNXgmgzvDYUXD3MLlxWYSvRa20iA-6CAOLJAZSPaoPft5Kpnxp7yH6c6AbvocjvrDnZVRthyphenhyphen53UGlgfuE3HfxEkgeRMC_a_vB/s1600/IMG_0170.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTMtinkCMURK-KwiNLFiRs94rDCp4gl7onvGDKW3Sy5AqNNXgmgzvDYUXD3MLlxWYSvRa20iA-6CAOLJAZSPaoPft5Kpnxp7yH6c6AbvocjvrDnZVRthyphenhyphen53UGlgfuE3HfxEkgeRMC_a_vB/s320/IMG_0170.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463438561709164418" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj_qkQTHO_F86ZDAonnyNq6beJF69BJpcE_JFBU2jmJZvcxE_jxu6RUlruITmRo7zjVyK-HYzpppRPjlRQlZzr-unS5QPt7zKKbZ75qyrjoeJlAKJF3TnQ5DdDUIBRBaw7QhcTHfozzbcX/s1600/IMG_0171.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj_qkQTHO_F86ZDAonnyNq6beJF69BJpcE_JFBU2jmJZvcxE_jxu6RUlruITmRo7zjVyK-HYzpppRPjlRQlZzr-unS5QPt7zKKbZ75qyrjoeJlAKJF3TnQ5DdDUIBRBaw7QhcTHfozzbcX/s320/IMG_0171.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463438566831371778" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-76895241205803834232010-03-10T14:09:00.000-08:002010-03-10T14:48:43.634-08:00A grand day out in Applecross<span style="font-family:arial;">We had a weekend out west. A lazy warm day on Saturday was followed by an early cold start for Beinn Bhan in Applecross. The long walk in paid dividends as conditions had benefitted from the refreeze. We were the second pair of 3 on March Hare gully (300m IV,4 **). The bottom section of the first pitch and a couple of smaller steps on the next 2 pitches were a bit thin and drippy, but the rest was superb.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJDJccyq0Kxag8pRBtOfDXQlGyaNDMaGrfq-wdualsoyUdpdU8rTfGDRqj6bf3i7030ai3srJQXTkfDT3A2PZD6X4gHpaYoMU0l5-SPLFj-ZIf_nqknpNGP2QoXGpYW6il1q5YXQYt8eq/s1600-h/IMG_0099.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJDJccyq0Kxag8pRBtOfDXQlGyaNDMaGrfq-wdualsoyUdpdU8rTfGDRqj6bf3i7030ai3srJQXTkfDT3A2PZD6X4gHpaYoMU0l5-SPLFj-ZIf_nqknpNGP2QoXGpYW6il1q5YXQYt8eq/s320/IMG_0099.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447132956231449154" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzZvtibCP3aYDaK3patmmFomPX1B3a3dVcJyoto_I5a8Q2r88oHdm7OOehHL9qIv2UUbLQhhLWjeAV8Yw3ZbJcnv1C7VT2T5-KouAWcBRksrYruFlgQ26kw6v0siUH5ZOKgumM6Y-rOUq/s1600-h/001.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzZvtibCP3aYDaK3patmmFomPX1B3a3dVcJyoto_I5a8Q2r88oHdm7OOehHL9qIv2UUbLQhhLWjeAV8Yw3ZbJcnv1C7VT2T5-KouAWcBRksrYruFlgQ26kw6v0siUH5ZOKgumM6Y-rOUq/s320/001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447132960447822578" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We topped out in 3hrs 45mins, and went to the summit for a well earned lunch. We were down before dark and had dinner in the Kinlochewe. A grand day indeed!</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5pw4I-g1nTNL4q2zt_1WRSkVxTfPurQxB3PAkPiMqr2wVb3ppCNLfMsxtk8Ua20bIujYSkxxRyH0M92_A8qs2Yac9T9AuQQP4tB04tQCffTL0tO_0sTxUtHM0wujkMVa2Uh2VBw3m2my/s1600-h/IMG_0103.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5pw4I-g1nTNL4q2zt_1WRSkVxTfPurQxB3PAkPiMqr2wVb3ppCNLfMsxtk8Ua20bIujYSkxxRyH0M92_A8qs2Yac9T9AuQQP4tB04tQCffTL0tO_0sTxUtHM0wujkMVa2Uh2VBw3m2my/s320/IMG_0103.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447134712389598978" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-73144501855116485692010-02-24T13:11:00.000-08:002010-02-24T13:53:00.484-08:00A day saved<span style="font-family:arial;">I'd arranged to </span>do point 5 <span style="font-family:arial;">with Alan Kimber</span>, and with snow and wind due to arrive around noon, we met at the car park at 0500. Unfortunately, the weather arrived early, so we called it off, not wanting to deal with either a) spindrift funnelling down the gully, or b) possible avalanches. So I was back home by 7am! With a spare day, i went to explore a waterfall that is marked on the map up the glen at Garve Bridge. It's not in the guidebook, and was well frozen, but is unfortunately only about 8ft high!<br /><br />I consoled myself with exploring Guisachan Falls (III) 30m, which is best approached from downstream by the right bank. Again, it was well frozen and gave a good solo. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6RHiwfJz0t6SyAmYZIf0NcKNDJA02VeDDV1paqh4hyphenhyphenDOncRmK1IqgLcNpCthUKmGMAPPiIR4W_5n97FW8PHySO_zw3hdDS1ZZ-g9imuAJoYK5Hk_wDzFB4nO9obCbjeyA28rJAjO8AD_/s1600-h/IMG_0071.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6RHiwfJz0t6SyAmYZIf0NcKNDJA02VeDDV1paqh4hyphenhyphenDOncRmK1IqgLcNpCthUKmGMAPPiIR4W_5n97FW8PHySO_zw3hdDS1ZZ-g9imuAJoYK5Hk_wDzFB4nO9obCbjeyA28rJAjO8AD_/s320/IMG_0071.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441930893966196482" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-88282493073021936532010-02-21T12:18:00.000-08:002010-02-21T13:00:11.702-08:00Alpine weather on the Ben<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFWY7Hbj9ZHxivxXLfr2UTvp3cWuzO8PRe4ZNl8hCskReaQ7sA4sFlv-xkgIK7fTbN0DJn4HVwHXS2to4yzkCT9HpmkLQvZAoXvlXU2F-yVSJZG7Ocd0S8IlYA7vM3RPdqcvXFfz_5sAf/s1600-h/IMG_0046.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFWY7Hbj9ZHxivxXLfr2UTvp3cWuzO8PRe4ZNl8hCskReaQ7sA4sFlv-xkgIK7fTbN0DJn4HVwHXS2to4yzkCT9HpmkLQvZAoXvlXU2F-yVSJZG7Ocd0S8IlYA7vM3RPdqcvXFfz_5sAf/s320/IMG_0046.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440796724656281794" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJwTChIxsXZK_IHvZjnP_Kjhosx6KsKN-jKIZDYlRPuNN2sxXNaKtCy5mD3oZWYIJH1BazCLRDtaiODfgyp24eywwQhac4-EBOo_-dUY6udpMimtTtG9jExAdV1MpKNWv9UbVaYP1MJApx/s1600-h/IMG_0048.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJwTChIxsXZK_IHvZjnP_Kjhosx6KsKN-jKIZDYlRPuNN2sxXNaKtCy5mD3oZWYIJH1BazCLRDtaiODfgyp24eywwQhac4-EBOo_-dUY6udpMimtTtG9jExAdV1MpKNWv9UbVaYP1MJApx/s320/IMG_0048.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440796729883272226" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">What can you say, other than 'stunning'! This weekend we were with Adventure Peaks for a familiarisation weekend. The group was going round the CMD arete to the summit of the Ben, and in view of the snow on the forest tracks, we scrapped plans for Tower ridge in order to help with the transport. 13 of us piled in to my defender and another chap's disco 4</span></span> to <span style="font-family:arial;">get to the top car park</span>!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTk1_569KQW4My3oCubZWzBXQ1rygxjEdhl7vNsvSCu6UhjnJgmH2dTPY3RU6sJlQGpIIpO6PtnFgnXqM0FPOib2BnRrXJl8BFqYe5zJxP-8cv7rydtM08qc2ujM4LCAXdfqaG26yTF93/s1600-h/IMG_0053.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTk1_569KQW4My3oCubZWzBXQ1rygxjEdhl7vNsvSCu6UhjnJgmH2dTPY3RU6sJlQGpIIpO6PtnFgnXqM0FPOib2BnRrXJl8BFqYe5zJxP-8cv7rydtM08qc2ujM4LCAXdfqaG26yTF93/s320/IMG_0053.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440798309535275250" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWSToyAJuJZUQcd5SUdO4QoZexCkrfHukf1OcIRNbJlUNMLA7Y3FMtCk7s8cQiBfg29-f9wTgyfqF1467vWJb32r0IU9kFRaspkphON45iZO-_3sHQExOQYOEUtZONw1pEVbCV9zjdj1M/s1600-h/IMG_0051.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWSToyAJuJZUQcd5SUdO4QoZexCkrfHukf1OcIRNbJlUNMLA7Y3FMtCk7s8cQiBfg29-f9wTgyfqF1467vWJb32r0IU9kFRaspkphON45iZO-_3sHQExOQYOEUtZONw1pEVbCV9zjdj1M/s320/IMG_0051.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440798298169647394" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">There wasn't a breath of wind, and the sun shone for all but about 10 minutes. We started in daylight and finished in day light - most un-scottish! Teams out on NE Buttress, Tower and Ledge Route reported ok conditions. No body on any gullies - very sensible given the amount of unconsolidated powder.<br /></span>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-45652653293085784832010-02-01T12:43:00.000-08:002010-02-01T13:41:50.138-08:00fooled by the forecast<span style="font-family:arial;">On Friday I met my brother, Nige, halfway in Glencoe. The forecast was poor, high winds, low cloud, very cold, snow showers. A short conference in the car park in a hoolie concluded that </span><span style="font-family:arial;">we didn't want to be hanging around on belay ledges, and that a </span><span style="font-family:arial;">mountaineering day in the Lost Valley was in order. After 3 hours of trudging up the glen under steadily improving skies, we realised we'd made the wrong choice, and that we didn't have the hardwear with us to take advantage of the excellent conditions.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb65lGffBbXTWMFp8YDTWVYY8P9FV2N_QzffRp2U25odpja9nZv8wxUtCfwPtUkFIJwRN8K5n4zIgTJD4GLd7Lk_mdtpLRMhHhRFC-n4o484-9tYgATKDl8WFeIFf9dMWAEp4pyNGT8tiY/s1600-h/IMG_0009.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb65lGffBbXTWMFp8YDTWVYY8P9FV2N_QzffRp2U25odpja9nZv8wxUtCfwPtUkFIJwRN8K5n4zIgTJD4GLd7Lk_mdtpLRMhHhRFC-n4o484-9tYgATKDl8WFeIFf9dMWAEp4pyNGT8tiY/s320/IMG_0009.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5433385418759660754" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN-hIOyPhVC6xPShDnp699xl90kDQsSZMKNG38MWNVZOQxc-H6t5QcXvG_GjleW_BWPPUVokD0IGXFJ4Dmtq3dHhoNVy-emZj1hIELIGpXWIPbeSYNdykfh9Z_cKgBEp6eBOqz-8u-NZFG/s1600-h/IMG_0010.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN-hIOyPhVC6xPShDnp699xl90kDQsSZMKNG38MWNVZOQxc-H6t5QcXvG_GjleW_BWPPUVokD0IGXFJ4Dmtq3dHhoNVy-emZj1hIELIGpXWIPbeSYNdykfh9Z_cKgBEp6eBOqz-8u-NZFG/s320/IMG_0010.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5433385424831579938" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We went up Right Hand Gully (I/II) and encountered some patches of windslab and one very tiring patch of seemingly bottomless soft snow, moved together, and finished up the right hand side of the headwall, possibly on the line of Granny's Groove (III). It must have been very banked out as we saw no sign of the 'good belays', or the 'cul de sac' in the gully, or the 'scoop' or 'overhang' on the right! </span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7XdPrnEh4UeENFUhOVSiNILBbqKfvRca5z0rS7oASDOKPaIEYd5W84M3dEezECPlsXEgd1sE73Z-ee5tfCOeAFNL1i2ZGSqgBa-sYsK4tiju92iLzrK_ZR-xfxVcNp8xdHQUZKuWVX_au/s1600-h/IMG_0013.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7XdPrnEh4UeENFUhOVSiNILBbqKfvRca5z0rS7oASDOKPaIEYd5W84M3dEezECPlsXEgd1sE73Z-ee5tfCOeAFNL1i2ZGSqgBa-sYsK4tiju92iLzrK_ZR-xfxVcNp8xdHQUZKuWVX_au/s320/IMG_0013.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5433386392447032386" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPEAMjUYaFXgFtAIe42DdL3fiM5Uk830oXwhPvfPMn9cj6C4M1fe8dDmbQthPjee2z_YMq1wuZl3T9OrCP61d9THv1AmHxx8Cq7iHz-aCt2hEYGeue1B1sPkP_rj70tyeMbir98nRsgmSI/s1600-h/IMG_0014.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPEAMjUYaFXgFtAIe42DdL3fiM5Uk830oXwhPvfPMn9cj6C4M1fe8dDmbQthPjee2z_YMq1wuZl3T9OrCP61d9THv1AmHxx8Cq7iHz-aCt2hEYGeue1B1sPkP_rj70tyeMbir98nRsgmSI/s320/IMG_0014.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5433386393815780258" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">There was no cornice on the bealach, and it was a pleasurable descent back to the clachaig for coke and chips. Far better than being in the office!</span>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-82707559913850839392010-01-24T13:41:00.000-08:002010-01-24T14:08:52.627-08:00West is best<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm6VPSFSmfuN1cTTdsUzxoCiTKXEy9DVSklG4yDWP4720mRIKcT9G5zVI7eF-CSPDQ_4Nku2aVskosuESgtlbP2XHsL_Ma-1RcjljAgYHC2wwJDj94hyaMvwzxaR2sWlSLN_riyXXps17k/s1600-h/029.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm6VPSFSmfuN1cTTdsUzxoCiTKXEy9DVSklG4yDWP4720mRIKcT9G5zVI7eF-CSPDQ_4Nku2aVskosuESgtlbP2XHsL_Ma-1RcjljAgYHC2wwJDj94hyaMvwzxaR2sWlSLN_riyXXps17k/s320/029.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430428067891618274" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMytjJAxxiFPs5z5oFywOnWzEBCkC9PZLUs8ZYXJdyqW-8Do5kk9vadJTu6_vEdNDUnf1KQN3yRZDcGAkb4fSnx7FL7MlTADpLriGrVjRn4jyihnIO_gZ279tHEvRAMtRKyBAaIbvd8k1-/s1600-h/031.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMytjJAxxiFPs5z5oFywOnWzEBCkC9PZLUs8ZYXJdyqW-8Do5kk9vadJTu6_vEdNDUnf1KQN3yRZDcGAkb4fSnx7FL7MlTADpLriGrVjRn4jyihnIO_gZ279tHEvRAMtRKyBAaIbvd8k1-/s320/031.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430428073824864658" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">On Friday myself, pete, karen and their 2 dogs went for an explore up beinn dearg east of Ullapool</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> to see what conditions were like. There's been a thaw over there, and the snowline is now about 650m. Emerald gully is missing its top icefall, and Fenian looks thin. Orangeman's gully looks good, and there appeared to be lots of ice on the Ice Hose, so Penguin should be in. Pete went up the Cadha Amadan with the dogs, while Karen and I soloed the Rev Ian Paisley Memorial gully, which had some soft patches and a couple of steps of II, but was ok. </span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Friday was intentionally short to save energy for the Saturday - a traverse of An Teallach. We left the road at 8am and were down at 7pm. The snow is as good as you could hope for, and recent northerlies have even banked out the bad step, which combined with</span><span style="font-family:arial;"> light winds and some great cloud formations made for a great day out. </span><span style="font-family:arial;">Surprisingly we only saw one other party, and we think they had climbed a gully, as we didn't meet anyone on the ridge.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKk3m8yg_UE86S3kzUWZUKExIN0tV4a3wmJW2XiUa-HX91hiiUiWzL26TfGruDQGsSm5A6rAIMnkSS4j-T7ApfXCnOlx2tOkmH6V_42xYgRwHilWKqHCAEp39T0qK3mDU2nBwgOFZNI263/s1600-h/009.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKk3m8yg_UE86S3kzUWZUKExIN0tV4a3wmJW2XiUa-HX91hiiUiWzL26TfGruDQGsSm5A6rAIMnkSS4j-T7ApfXCnOlx2tOkmH6V_42xYgRwHilWKqHCAEp39T0qK3mDU2nBwgOFZNI263/s320/009.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430430402035611010" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_g9VFt3blm-ODXTYbM97fIAATvxwMn9-WJOmUfZpuso-NLizdY2ylUAwFR8ENtDalXSbTR1QGVdpCD9TyAF8F2T1rFkCFoH5I0uYBsg2fKkTCLXk0UTpJdHpoDWJ-2IwFx68llwVXS71i/s1600-h/010.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_g9VFt3blm-ODXTYbM97fIAATvxwMn9-WJOmUfZpuso-NLizdY2ylUAwFR8ENtDalXSbTR1QGVdpCD9TyAF8F2T1rFkCFoH5I0uYBsg2fKkTCLXk0UTpJdHpoDWJ-2IwFx68llwVXS71i/s320/010.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430430410453107954" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5450706324901639473.post-54024993076749066012010-01-18T12:17:00.000-08:002010-01-24T14:40:00.411-08:00Thaw now, but what a freeze!<span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Warm wet weather has replaced the cold, but we made use of it. Last weekend saw us on Steall falls on Friday, in Strathconon (Alt Mhairi) on Saturday, and on Fain Falls (Dundonnel) on Sunday. The latter is graded IV, 4, but we found it quite hard. </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">It's in condition so infrequently, </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">but the cocensus seems to be top end IV,5. So we did our first technical 5 by </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">accid</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">ent!</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Photos - Alt Mhairi, Steall, P1 Fain, </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Vicky s</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">econding P2 Fain (credit </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">for </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">photo Ste</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">ve </span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">and Rya</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">n, A</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">be</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">r</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeyPoD4NWiAn3634d-cRFk3kSFFuj_Jz-tLCPQwq-NpPG0aGY4H-JYPN4e-tUoT1SAT4NXAN7mz2EPKcKJ1AKsqJRjJDLBAL1l7byLcEsglJQQrrNHorjFkkcu9gPmji4kd1B0lRwcklw/s1600-h/008.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeyPoD4NWiAn3634d-cRFk3kSFFuj_Jz-tLCPQwq-NpPG0aGY4H-JYPN4e-tUoT1SAT4NXAN7mz2EPKcKJ1AKsqJRjJDLBAL1l7byLcEsglJQQrrNHorjFkkcu9gPmji4kd1B0lRwcklw/s320/008.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428187052645611874" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2kM-QoIqEDD4J95k9pKBbs2THWCl2FZduUQsspPK_LyBkF3cypmixn-GXAfZcQVk4GU9OAHiDqxBW8WuhRnh5NuIJ6y2u5kxFX5QE9EG-YkeXqjgovL1F_fBZefg2FxLVxM5dRhrJv5i/s1600-h/005.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2kM-QoIqEDD4J95k9pKBbs2THWCl2FZduUQsspPK_LyBkF3cypmixn-GXAfZcQVk4GU9OAHiDqxBW8WuhRnh5NuIJ6y2u5kxFX5QE9EG-YkeXqjgovL1F_fBZefg2FxLVxM5dRhrJv5i/s320/005.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428187048299261074" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">de</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4_OCxvRcvVfgvgHfGp7CdCBhmcrB786j2F_WAyjIHv9-cdzeEDjSFE9sYeaTuRGB_KxCAe1dgQgzjLjceJxOVE6RKGwHZuACuE0XvlEj4USrC3m9smI2l-J-p6BfQaMtgEpKL1ckMAN9/s1600-h/001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4_OCxvRcvVfgvgHfGp7CdCBhmcrB786j2F_WAyjIHv9-cdzeEDjSFE9sYeaTuRGB_KxCAe1dgQgzjLjceJxOVE6RKGwHZuACuE0XvlEj4USrC3m9smI2l-J-p6BfQaMtgEpKL1ckMAN9/s320/001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428187061908538322" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">e</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">n</span></span><span style="font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">), P2 Fain</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQcgvw-xj-OzQlQlAoH385So564ImJ3q-mGd_Avb7RIncYSEeJZ9dEfiuXmhm-2TvcfQMGArwLucIBHG0mb4AuIU8Kr4TKkSeVAnVoleJ9p86yQQlE8TYKEtD71kJDNX0tbBRzOwggWQsZ/s1600-h/Me+and+Matt+on+Fain+Falls..jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 254px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQcgvw-xj-OzQlQlAoH385So564ImJ3q-mGd_Avb7RIncYSEeJZ9dEfiuXmhm-2TvcfQMGArwLucIBHG0mb4AuIU8Kr4TKkSeVAnVoleJ9p86yQQlE8TYKEtD71kJDNX0tbBRzOwggWQsZ/s320/Me+and+Matt+on+Fain+Falls..jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428187069799645954" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIYjmaP9pAseG2oQ2tBSdnK4qE4M59jvo-eaqM8dt2rGTw42UBF0lWK9B-8CSV6oPpm5aJZtxPrAknzC0GCv3ehSjBMakaymJ6oA1CRnu0DSgkjTf8la_lcJYEI10nW-W47ILS-g2g3ac/s1600-h/011.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 190px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIYjmaP9pAseG2oQ2tBSdnK4qE4M59jvo-eaqM8dt2rGTw42UBF0lWK9B-8CSV6oPpm5aJZtxPrAknzC0GCv3ehSjBMakaymJ6oA1CRnu0DSgkjTf8la_lcJYEI10nW-W47ILS-g2g3ac/s320/011.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428187065358329938" border="0" /></a>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06915940135341408374noreply@blogger.com0